Setting Types

Setting types

Setting a diamond or a gemstone is the process of fixing the stone into the piece of jewelry.

The setting matters a great deal: it determines not only the look, but how the piece is perceived, how well it suits the wearer’s style, how durable it is, where the stones sit, and the play between the light and the stones.

So before deciding which setting to choose, it is worth weighing how well it suits the shape of the stone, its stability and durability, how the piece will hold its appearance over time, the personal expression it allows, and of course the look itself.

There are many diamond setting types. The most common include the prong setting, which emphasizes the diamond; the channel setting, for small stones in a row; the invisible setting, which creates a continuous surface; the bead or flush setting, in which the stones are sunk into the gold; and special settings such as tension and pavé. Each method affects the look, the durability and the cost of the piece.

The main setting methods

• Prong or claw setting (Prong / Claw): the classic and most common method. Four to six small metal prongs hold the diamond, exposing the stone to the light, allowing maximum light in and bringing out its brilliance and its size. It suits center stones and engagement rings above all. The drawback: the stone is less protected from knocks, and the prongs can bend or break. The method is also used for small side stones, and in a variation with gently split prongs that create a scalloped, shell-like look when the piece is seen from the side.
• Surface prong setting (Surface prong): small prongs that stand proud of the metal surface. Small shared prongs are raised slightly above the metal, and tiny cuts are made in the gold to house the culet of the diamond, its pointed lower tip.
• Shared prong setting (Shared prong): a single prong holding two adjacent diamonds at once. A versatile style, usually suited to larger gemstones as well, and characterized by galleries — the area beneath the diamond — that are either open or closed to the light.
• Channel setting (Channel): an elegant style that uses small cuts inside straight metal bars on either side of the small diamonds to hold them in place. The diamonds are separated from one another by the metal bars and set densely inside a metal channel, with no prongs, which creates a clean, protected look. It suits small stones.
• Invisible setting (Invisible): a sophisticated technique in which a groove is cut into the diamond itself, so that the metal is hidden and the illusion of one large, continuous surface of diamonds is created.
• Bead or flush setting (Bead / Flush): the diamonds are set directly into the metal of the piece, with the metal raised slightly around the stone to form small beads. It is common for small diamonds and for creating a carpeted look.
• Tension setting (Tension): the center diamond is held by the physical pressure of the metal on either side of it, with no prongs. It creates a modern, distinctive look, but demands great precision.
• Pavé setting (Pavé): a dramatic setting created with shared prongs and three or more rows of small diamonds, set expertly and very densely. The diamonds sit tight against one another and cover a large area of metal, creating an exceptionally brilliant look, almost like a path or a carpet of diamonds.
• Halo setting (Halo): a center diamond encircled by a ring of smaller diamonds, which increases its visual size and adds brilliance.
• Bezel setting (Bezel): a style with a clean, modern look. A metal frame surrounds the whole diamond in a slender band of precious metal and protects it well. The frame wraps the diamond completely — modern and secure, though it blocks a little light.

The choice of setting depends on personal style, on the type of piece, on the size of the diamonds, on the budget, and on whether you want to emphasize the diamond or create a uniform, sparkling look.

Common questions

• Does the setting affect the size of the stone? Yes. The right setting can create an illusion of size and heighten the brilliance and presence of a particular stone.
• Can several setting types be combined in one piece? Yes. Different setting methods can be combined to create a personal, distinctive piece and a balanced, rich look.
• How does the setting affect caring for the piece? The right setting makes cleaning easy and keeps the piece looking its best for years.

The right setting depends on your stone, your budget and how the ring will be worn day to day. If you would like to see settings in white gold, yellow gold or platinum, or build a ring around your own stone, a direct supplier such as Israel Diamonds lets you design your own ring (opens in new tab) and choose the setting yourself.